Everyone told me not to go to Morocco alone. But I wanted to go and it was
November and my friends all had jobs. And I wasn't gonna not go just because
people told me I shouldn't. So I went. And it sucked sometimes, but overall
was a great trip. The guys expected me to be a whore and wanted to either
sleep with me or marry me, or I guess both, and were really
persistent. That got old fast, but was definitely an experience. Overall,
people were incredibly friendly and helpful and generous. It's beautiful, the
food is good, I learned some French and some Arabic. Good times.
On the boat from Algeciras, Spain, to Tangier.
Beautiful, but look at all the trash.
The hand of Fatima. Fatima was Mohammed's daughter; the hand is supposed to
ward off evil spirits and is on doors all over Morocco.
People take dough to public bakeries to have their bread made.
The first of many unsolicited tour guides.
Little town in the Rif mountains that's bluewashed instead of
On the bus from Chefchouan to Fès
Fès is a mosh pit, a labyrinth, a snake pit. I didn't do a great job
of photographing it. Picture a thousand little alley streets (actually I
think they claim there are something like 7000 streets in the medina) packed
full of people, donkeys, carts, cats; it teems with humanity. They sell goat
heads in the streets. And everybody wants to be your tour guide. It's like a
carnival ride that you have to just give in to.
Everyone in Morocco has satellite TV. People who don't have plumbing
or floors in their houses have satellite TV. It's the first thing they show
you when you go inside.
More satellite dishes
Huge central square with food, music, storytellers, snake charmers, gropers.
And freshly-squeezed orange juice for about fifty cents.
Chez Rabia: In case you were wondering what became of Vanilla Ice
I did a four-day camel trek through the desert. The night I got there it
poured rain. Whatever.
Ali, my guide
The rain was the first they'd had in ten years. We had to go almost to
Algeria one day because the camel refused to cross this little steam that the
It takes a lot for me to like a kid, but this little nomad was cool as hell.
We didn't come close to sharing a common language, but had fun taking
This is a well.
The last night in the desert we stayed in what they call the African village
(Africa in Morocco means sub-Saharan--this was a village of about a hundred
people who came from I think Senegal) and heard gnawa music. You can do a lot
with three strings, a drum, and some krakebs.
On the Atlantic coast. The opening sequence of Orson Welles' Othello was
For being so famous, there's almost nothing to do in Casablanca. But it does
have the world's third largest mosque, one of the few that tourists are
allowed to visit. (For a fee, of course.) Was built for the 60th birthday of
King Hassan II (father of current King Mohammed VI) and paid for by a
universal police-enforced tax. It's good to be king, I guess.
I got to sneak into this church because the guard thought I was part of a tour
With Rajaa, my host in Casablanca
After three weeks in Morocco I went to Tunisia for two weeks. In retrospect I
probably should have gone to Egypt. C'est la vie. Tunisia is a lot
like Morocco, and doesn't have pyramids.
The ruins at Carthage were pretty cool. It's an absolutely beautiful place; I
guess that's why everyone was fighting over it way back when.
What's left of the Roman baths.
They sacrificed children here.
American World War II cemetery. I'm a sucker for WWII. Made me
The guard at the museum in Tunis made me climb under the barrier and
pose with this old stone thing.
In southern Tunisia. Close to where they filmed the first Star Wars, and
where Luke Skywalker's hometown was named after.
And this wasn't even the worst toilet I had to use. The hose on the wall
replaces toilet paper.
Near the Libyan border. I wish I'd taken a photo of the sign for
The guy on the left wanted to marry me. That we didn't share a common
language bothered him not.
Near the Algerian border. It has this nice palm oasis, but you can't look too
closely because the oasis (like most of North Africa, unfortunately) is
full of trash.
Hotel courtyard. Was a bad tourist and spent an afternoon reading the
Little fishing village at the top of Tunisia. Northernmost point in Africa, I
Sidi Bou Said
The highlight of the Tunisia trip, this little village outside of Tunis was
View from an outdoor cafe